Hyacinths

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5 pack - Blue Star
10 pack - Blue Star
5 pack - White Pearl
10 pack - White Pearl
5 pack - Pink Pearl
10 pack - Pink Pearl
10 pack - Grape Hyacinth Bulbs - Big Smile (Blue)
25 pack - Grape Hyacinth Bulbs - Big Smile (Blue)

Hardiness Zones:
USDA Hardiness Zones 3 - 9. They will need some winter protection in Zones lower than 5 and some pre-chilling in Zones above 7, depending on the variety.
Exposure:
Full sun to partial shade. As with all spring bulbs, hyacinths sprout, bloom and start to fade into dormancy before deciduous trees fully leaf out so you don't have to worry about too much shade from nearby trees.
Mature Size: 6-12 inches (h) x 4-9 inches (w)
Bloom Period: Late Winter - Early Spring
Soil: Hyacinth do best in a soil that is neutral to slightly acidic. They will not tolerate wet soils.

Planting Hyacinth Bulbs in the Ground:
Hyacinth bulbs contain a substance that can cause an itchy skin reaction in some people. Wear gloves when handling the bulbs if you are sensitive.
Most varieties of hyacinth bulbs are fairly large. Plant them pointed end up, about 3 times as deep as they are wide. For most, this will be 7-8 inches deep. They can be planted closer to the surface in warmer areas, where they will need to be dug up and chilled if you want them to bloom again. Give them some room to spread out by spacing them about 5-6 inches apart.
You can also plant the bulbs in pots on patios, decks or window boxes. Just make sure they have access to water.
Alternately, you could plant them in pots and enjoy seeing them come up indoors. The flowers won’t last as long as they will outside, but a single or small group of potted hyacinths are sure way to bring spring inside!

Severe Weather Warning: If you live in the southern part of the United States, please keep your bulbs in the refrigerator (low humidity drawer) until the beginning of December, and then plant them outside. It’s possible that some mold will grow on the bulbs, which does not harm the bulb in any sort of way.

If you have planted your bulbs in planter boxes or pots, and the weather forecast predicts weather well below freezing, then protect your bulbs by either covering them in bark dust, or moving the pots close to side of the house to protect them from the frost.

Maintenance:
Water the ground well after you plant the bulbs. Continue watering into winter if there is not regular rain. Allow the ground to dry out between watering so the bulbs do not rot.
Some of the taller varieties will flop over. You could stake them if you only have a few. Otherwise, consider planting them closer together, to support each other. Rich soil has been blamed for floppy hyacinth, so go easy on the organic matter.
Cut off the flower stalks once the bulbs have finished blooming so the plant’s efforts can be redirected into storing energy in the bulb. Alternatively, you could run your hand up the stalk and knock off the flowers. Don't remove the leaves until they have started to turn yellow.
Feed the bulbs each spring when the new growth first appears by scratching some bulb food into the nearby soil and watering well.

Propagating Hyacinths:
Hyacinth bulbs don't usually live for more than about 3-4 years. If you'd like to propagate more hyacinth bulbs, wait until late summer and gently lift the bulbs. Remove the small offsets forming around the edges of the bulbs and replant everything, including the original bulbs. Be patient, because it will take a few years for the offsets to bloom. Since the plants can disappear in mid-summer, mark where they are while they're still in bloom.